I don't know much about trout fishing. I have never targeted trout before. I might start soon and was asking around for information about what works. Some one sent me this file and I thought it was helpful.
Here?s a summary of a proven trolling technique. It will take a little patience and
practice to get the hang of it, but if you stick with it you?ll catch fish.
1. You need to get clamp on downriggers or 1-2 leadcore trolling reels /
poles set up. This method will go over leadcore trolling. The reels can
be any semi-rugged level wind or bait caster reel or you can go to
Cabella's (like I did) and get some of their DepthMaster reels. Trolling
poles are typically from 7-9 feet, which I know is a pain in a small boat,
but really helps as the fish will hook themselves from the noodle action
of the rod.
2. Get about a 20-lb. "super-braid" to use as backing. Put about 50-75
yds of the superbraid on the reels first. Tie it to the leadcore (next)
with a double uni knot.
3. I'd use 15-lb. no-lead leadcore from Cabella's or whatever is closest in
test to this. Put about 10 colors of the non-lead leadcore onto the reel.
4. Next is the "first" leader, basically any good quality monofilament. I
use 10# test. Tie this to the leadcore with a double uni knot and to a
small snap swivel on the lead end with an improved clinch knot. Put at
least 30-50 feet of the 10# mono on the reel. Some trollers swear by
more -- up to 50-yards. However, for hand rowing on a reservoir I'd go
with only about 40-ft.
5. Next is an attractor, such as a small-med flasher or dodger. I use little
stringers of spinning blade rigs with colored beads. Copper or bronze
blades seem to be the better colors. Most of these store-bought
attractors will have a double barrel swivel on the top end and a snap
swivel on the bottom. If there is no snap swivel on the bottom, thread
one on (you may need to add your own slip ring).
6. For best action, less line twist and ease of changing attractors or lures,
tie the 10# mono to a small snap swivel with either an improved clinch
knot or a no-slip loop knot. Then, just open the snap to thread on the
barrel swivel end of the attractor.
7. Next to last, cut a 20-30 in. piece of fluorocarbon leader (it should be
18-24 in. when done tying knots). I've been using 8-lb. test which
holds up to the motion of the attractor better than 6-lb and helps
prevent line twist. If you skip the attractor, tie the 10# mono to a
double barrel swivel and then tie on a 6# fluorocarbon leader.
8. Tie no-slip loop knots on both ends of the leader using the snap swivel
on the bottom or the attractor and the slip ring of a small flutter spoon
lure to help tie the loops. This way you can change lures and
attractors by popping open the snap swivel at the top and threading off
the bottom loop from the split ring on the lure.
9. Small flutter spoon type lures, no bigger than 2.5 ? 3.25 in long, are
key. They move well at slow speeds and even the big trout and
salmon like to munch on tiny baitfish. Trout and salmon rarely hit big
lures. Lures like the DB Smelts, Top Guns, or Mooselook Wobblers
are considered the best. Best lure colors include different shades of
yellow to orange with black dots, copper, and combinations of the two.
Fluorescent orange / black dot is referred to as the ?NH Guide? color
since it was found by NH fishing guides to be so effective when trolling
for trout and salmon.
10. This method is best fished with a buddy. One person rows and the
other tends to the trolling rigs. Pull in most or all of your line before
stopping and changing rowers or the leadcore might sink to the bottom
and get hung up. We found we could only manage two leadcore rigs
at a time; when we tried to add a third line, we ran into problems.
11. While rowing at a steady speed, let out one rig at a time. This will take
a little practice. Once you get to the point where some of the leadcore
is finally in the water, line should start going out pretty smooth as it
sinks. Adjust the free spool knob on the trolling reel until it goes out on
its own with the bail open, but don?t loosen it more than that.
12. This time of year (Spring) before a strong thermocline develops and
water temps are no more than 60 F, fish could be anywhere from near
the surface (a fraction of a color out) to 20-25 ft (3.5 to 4 colors out),
though we caught one brown at about 30 ft. After you?ve got the right
amount of lead core out (out means in and below the water, not
showing on the rod or above the water, so keep your eye on where the
line hits the water) set the bail and drag.
13. Set your drag at med-light resistance ? maybe 4-lbs. tops -- (trolling
reels with star drags are best) and put the clicker on. (Read directions
that come with reel).
14. You need a depth finder (clamp on Fishing Buddy) if you want to enjoy
this and not end up losing rigs on the bottom. Even so, you?ll
occasionally drag bottom and lose a lure or attractor. The pay off is
this is a proven way to catch nice trout and salmon.
15. Find a drop off get to where you?re in 30-40 ft. of water. Troll parallel to
the drop off so you stay in the same depth range or a little deeper than
you started.
16. Atlantic Salmon (land locked salmon). From what I?ve seen unless
you?re in real deep water or adjacent to a really deep hole (whey they
might stay down), when salmon hit the lure they often hook themselves
and you may not see the rod do much more than pump a little as if you
had a light strike. They usually either shoot to the surface and break
water or they run at the boat, or both, trying to slack the line and shake
the hook. If you see a fish break water behind the boat, even at a
distance, you?ve probably got a fish on that hit the lure and went
straight up. DON?T jerk the pole to try and set the hook. Chances are
you?ve got lots of slack line and you?ll just help the fish shake the hook.
Reel line in like a maniac until the line is tight and you feel the fish, and
then fight it trout / salmon style (not bass style). If it makes a run and
pulls the drag, let it take line until it stops. When it stops its run, pull
the pole tight up slowly, reel on the way down and keep repeating this
until the fish is near or on the surface. You want to keep the line tight
but don?t horse the fish in as the salmonids have weak mouths that
tear easy.
17. Brown trout. Browns seem to behave just like salmon (same genus).
Both browns we caught last time out broke water right away.
18. Rainbows may stay down and make wacky runs, break water,
anything. They seem to stay down initially and fight a little harder lb for
lb. than the browns or salmon.
19. This is also a great way to catch smallies in the summer, but you may
need to mix up lure types and colors.
20. For summer trolling, move into even deeper water and get enough lead
core out to be below the thermocline. You may need to have 5-7
colors out for summer trout and salmon fishing. The more leadcore
you have out, the more you need to reel in with a fish on, so
remember, to reel like a demon (but don?t jerk the pole to set the hook
like you might for bass).
21. Fishing first light or around dusk is best for salmon and browns and
even for rainbows. Lakers may stay more active through the day.
Fishing for trout and salmon typically slows down between 10 am and
4-5 pm. Fishing at night can be very productive for browns and
salmon. Both will come up shallower at night.
22. Good luck. Stick with it and you?ll catch fish.
